On a rainy day in London, a crowd of people gathered outside the Seymour Leisure Centre, an unexpected venue for Jonathan Anderson’s JW Anderson autumn-winter 2024 ready-to-wear collection. As we were guided to our seats, passing empty spin studios, and smelling the faint smell of chlorine from the pool, I couldn’t help but wonder if Anderson was going to make us stretch during the show. I settled in the large gym, where the photographers ran instead of the athletes. Only then did the London sun decide to peek through the windows of the old school, a promising sign of what was to come.
When the music started, the audience was immediately captivated by the models’ striking gray hair. the view was reminiscent of our grandmothers, but the fashion was anything but traditional. Models sported oversized gray trench coats with exaggerated silhouettes, knit ensembles that looked like luxurious pajamas, and heavy knitwear that looked more like body armor than classic granny attire.
Models backstage at JW Anderson AW24
Nicky J. Sims/Getty Images
As the show progressed, I found myself captivated by the contrasts in Anderson’s collection. A marked departure from the fall-winter 2024 menswear show in Milan, the fall-winter 2024 ready-to-wear line was characterized by texture and structure. Embellished jackets with pockets, pleated and tasseled skirts and bulbous knit dresses took center stage. One piece that caught my eye was a leather jacket with an oversized collar and twisted shape; It fitted perfectly to the body, making it an essential item for the gloomy British weather. Another personal favorite was the footwear: the oversized black and brown shearling boots were a versatile staple that complemented each look.
Models backstage at JW Anderson AW24
Nicky J. Sims/Getty Images
Unlike previous collections, this season the bags took a more sober approach. the few we saw on the runway were medium sized and made from a combination of knit, leather and suede. Two of them stood out for their uniqueness: one had a leather body with a thick yellow rope handle, while the other had a green handle. This juxtaposition of versatility and luxury was another contrast that defined the show.
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
Victor VIRGILE/Getty Images
As Anderson’s nearly 40 looks paraded down the runway during the finale, the appreciation throughout the room was palpable. the collection was clearly JW Anderson; the epitome of wearable luxury. Showcasing the contrasting energy surrounding the show, each look was simultaneously relaxed and structured.
